Aldo Conterno

“Conterno once again takes its place among the region’s top producers…Based on the wines I have tasted recently this venerable property looks to be in great hands for the future.”
– Antonio Galloni in the Wine Advocate

Winery

Poderi Aldo Conterno belongs to an elite group of historical Barolo producers who have truly shaped the history of winemaking in the Langhe. The essential resource the Wine Atlas of the Langhe writes “Gran Bussia is universally acknowledged as one of the finest interpretations of Barolo. Created in 1970 from a selection of the estate’s best grapes, Gran Bussia – released only in the best vintages –has shown how it is possible to achieve a perfect marriage of aromas and flavor with unhurried cellaring. Recent tastings of all the vintages have confirmed the staying power of the wine, which exalts the majestic nose of Nebbiolo while offering a palate that becomes increasingly velvety with the passing years. The other Barolo selections released are Bussia Soprana [now simply Barolo], Romirasco, Cicala and Colonnello. The last two, in particular, have shown that they can frequently scale the heights of quality, coming close to the dizzy peak of Gran Bussia. Another wine worth noting from this cellar is Favot, a mono-varietal Nebbiolo.”

The story of Poderi Aldo Conterno is a tale of great passion for winemaking that winds back through the generations and crosses international borders. It starts in the 19th century, when the forefathers of Aldo Conterno emigrated to Argentina. After only a few years they went back to Italy to the small family farm and winery in Monforte d’Alba where they returned to producing the local wine. With their return, the Conterno family increased the production of wine, to be sold in casks not only in Piedmont and Liguria but as far away as the Americas, thanks to a relative who had stayed out in Argentina. At this time, the Conternos felt the need to create a superior Barolo, to be produced exclusively in the best vintages, which saw long vinification periods and was extremely ageworthy. In the 1920s, the first Barolo Riserva was bottled. At the end of the ’30s, the business was handed over to son Giacomo, who continued his father’s tradition with commitment and foresight, while teaching the business to his sons Giovanni and Aldo. In the mid-’50s, Aldo set out for the United States, hoping to establish a winemaking business in California, with the help of an uncle who lived there. Upon his return to the family business in Italy around 1961, father Giacomo handed over the winery to his sons: it was a thriving and prestigious business, recognized throughout most of the country. Yet, the five-year experience in the United States had kindled within Aldo a desire to establish a business of his own. After working for a considerable time alongside his brother, he bought the “Favot” farm, founding the estate “Poderi Aldo Conterno” in 1969.

The farmhouse is situated in the Bussia hamlet, a section of the Monforte d’Alba village. At present, the farm comprises about 25 hectares of vineyards considered to be some of the very best plots in all of the Langhe. At an altitude of about 400 meters above sea level, the terrain is oriented south-southwest and is composed of gray-brown compact layers of sandy soil alternating with white and bluish calcareous marls, rich with calcium carbonate and iron. All fruit is strictly hand harvested in mid-October. Fermentation occurs in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. The estate’s four Barolos are vinified in the same manner: they are all fermented in horizontal fermenters, “which are different from the more violent rotary fermenters” according to Conterno. Fermentation and maceration lasts 2-3 weeks, depending on the vintage. The wines are then aged exclusively in Slavonian-oak casks ranging from 25 to 75 hectoliters, which are changed every 15-18 years. Selected yeasts are never used. The wines are remarkably approachable and tend to show a lot of sweet fruit in their youths as well as notes of spices and vanilla. These are very clean and polished wines of great elegance. All the other wines are aged in French-oak barriques.

Visit the winery at www.poderialdoconterno.com

Wines

Langhe Chardonnay Bussiador 2006

This classic chardonnay comes from fruit grown in several Bussia vineyards. It starts its fermentation in stainless-steel then completes it in French-oak barriques. It then ages in 100% new French-oak barriques for 12 months.

“There’s apple, lemon peel, milk and ice cream flavors in this full-bodied white, with a round, velvety texture. Very good Chardonnay.”
The Wine Spectator, 89 points

“Good deep yellow-straw color. Complex aromas of mirabelle, pineapple, apricot, coconut and vanilla, lifted by fresh herbs. Broad, lush and sweet, with the concentration of fruits and minerals to support the oak treatment (16 months in new barriques Finishes quite dry, even austere, with a nutty note and a slightly phenolic tannic edge. This should hold up nicely for eight to ten years in bottle.”
International Wine Cellars, 90 points

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Langhe Dolcetto Masante 2008

A classic Dolcetto harvested from vineyards in Bussia, it is vinified strictly in stainless-steel tanks after 5-8 days maceration.

“This has some earth notes, with plenty of ripe fruit as well. Full and juicy, with raspberry and blueberry flavors. Long and flavorful. A very pretty Dolcetto.”
The Wine Spectator, 88 points

“A stunning example of how a famous Barolo vintner can produce a Dolcetto of such quality is Aldo Conterno’s Masante 2007 from the Langhe region, where the vineyards were established in 1969. When I tasted the wine last week I was amazed at the depth and complexity that followed the expected deep purple color. It has aged impeccably, its fruit, acids and tannins in perfect harmony, and an extraordinary value at $20 a bottle.”
John Mariani, Bloomberg News, 7/26/2010

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Barbera d’Alba Conca Tre Pile 2006

The Barbera in this bottling comes from the Conca Tre Pile vineyard, a hilly area in Bussia Soprana where the vines reach a maximum age of 45 years. Macerated for 8-10 days, the new wine spends a few months in stainless-steel tanks before being transferred to 100% new French-oak barriques for 12 months.

“Blueberry and mineral on the nose, with flowers. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long, caressing finish. Very fine and subtle.”
The Wine Spectator, 90 points

“The 2006 Barbera d’Alba Conca Tre Pile marries ripe fruit with a firm, classic sense of structure. Red cherries, flowers, minerals and licorice linger on the polished finish. This focused, refined Barbera is sure to deliver thrilling drinking over the next few years. I loved it.”
The Wine Advocate, 90 points

“Deep red-ruby. Captivating aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, licorice and game…Then sweet, juicy and serious, with intense dark fruit flavors complicated by mineral and animal nuances. Strong acidity appears to facilitate the integration of the wine’s oak component. Finishes long and subtle, with very fine-grained tannins.”
International Wine Cellar, 91 points

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Langhe Nebbiolo “Il Favot” 2006

Made from both Michet and Lampia clones of Nebbiolo, the grapes used to make “ Il Favot” come from vines throughout Bussia that have undergone periodic replanting and have a maximum age of 20 years. The maceration is limited to 6-8 days to limit the extraction of tannins but to draw more color from the skins themselves in order to get a deeply colored wine with a remarkable softness. Fermented in stainless steel, the wine spends 5-6 months in the tanks before being racked off into 100% new French-oak barriques where it ages for 18 months.

“The 2006 Langhe Nebbiolo Il Favot is a very serious wine endowed with superb concentration and balance. This firm, vibrant Nebbiolo possesses gorgeous, refined tannins that render it enjoyable today, but readers who enjoy more aromatic nuance and complexity may want to cellar the wine for a few years. The sheer integrity of fruit here is remarkable. This is a great effort from Aldo Conterno.”
The Wine Advocate, 90 points

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Barolo 2005

Made from both Michet and Lampia clones of Nebbiolo that come largely from Bussia and 20% from vineyards in Barolo, all of which are at least 20 years old, the wine is left to macerate on the skins for at least 15 days, after which it is left to rest in stainless-steel tanks for 4-5 months. Thereafter, it is transferred to large Slavonian-oak barrels where it will age for 26-28 months.

“The 2005 Barolo offers up gorgeous aromas that literally fill the room with intense perfume. This finessed, mid-weight wine reveals superb purity to its primary, fresh fruit in an ethereal style. Finessed tannins round out this complete Barolo. Beginning with the 2004, Conterno’s Barolo contains 20% fruit from Barolo in addition to the Bussia fruit that made up the wine in previous vintages.”
The Wine Advocate, 91 points

“Dried berry on the nose, with coffee bean, new leather and flowers. Medium- to full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long, caressing finish. Subtle and classy. Builds on the palate.”
The Wine Spectator, 90 points

“(since 2004, this bottling has been from 85% Bussia Soprana fruit and 15% fruit from the town of Barolo) Moderately saturated medium red. Scented nose of strawberry and dried flowers. Very fresh and nicely delineated, with harmonious acidity framing the flavors of red fruits, flowers, licorice and spices. Not especially deep or fleshy but attractive, brisk and youthful. Finishes with dusty tannins and lingering spiciness.”
International Wine Cellar, 90 points

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Barolo Cicala 2005

On the splendid terraces of the Cicala vineyard, whose vines average 40-45 years old, the main variety planted is the Lampia clone on the rootstock known as Rupestris du Lot. The wine is left to macerate on the skins for at least 15 days, after which it is left to rest in stainless-steel tanks for 3-5 months. Thereafter, it is transferred to large Slavonian-oak barrels where it will rest for 28-30 months.

“Strawberry pie and cream aromas lead to a full-bodied palate. Very thick and powerful, with big, velvety tannins and masses of fruit. A blockbuster style.”
The Wine Spectator, 95 points

“The estate’s 2005 Barolo Cicala is a transparent, mid-weight wine redolent of dark fruit, spices, minerals and licorice, all of which come together in the glass with superb elegance. Here the tannins are decidedly firmer and bigger than in the Colonello, even though the vineyards are just a few hundred meters apart! This powerful yet harmonious wine is simply radiant in its beauty.”
The Wine Advocate, 93 points

”Good full medium red. Wild aromas of redcurrant, black cherry, tar and leather; this smells tannic but the fruit element expands impressively as the wine opens in the glass. Then large-scaled and firm in the mouth, with powerful acidity currently suppressing the wine’s sweetness. There’s a boatload of fruit here, but today the wine’s mineral and gamey elements dominate. In a very traditional style, and completely different from the Colonnello: more backward and more masculine (Conterno refers to it as “our rude boy”). The serious tannins build with air and currently cut off the wine’s finishing fruit.”
International Wine Cellar, 92 points

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Barolo Colonnello 2005

In the Colonnello vineyard, a pretty hill whose vines average 40-45 years old, the main variety planted is the ancient Michet clone on rootstock known as 420A. The wine is left to macerate on the skins for at least 15 days, after which it is left to rest in stainless-steel tanks for 3-5 months. Thereafter, it is transferred to large Slavonian-oak barrels where it will rest for 28-30 months.

“Enticing aromas of plum tart and vanilla bean aromas follow through to a full body, with a beautiful concentration of ripe fruit and super silky tannins. A wine with beautiful balance and finesse that’s also concentrated and rich.”
The Wine Spectator, 95 points

“The 2005 Barolo Colonnello reveals lovely density and depth in its spiced, floral red fruits. The tannins are sweet and silky, very much in keeping with the qualities this vineyard rich in sand typically expresses. This mid-weight Barolo offers awesome balance and the sheer class for which Aldo Conterno is famous. It is a great effort.”
The WIne Advocate, 93 points

“Good full medium red. Deeper, more important aromas of black cherry, strawberry and minerals; more primary and brooding than the normale. Bigger and richer too, with a creamier texture and an almost chocolatey character that carries through to the aftertaste. More complex but less fruity than the basic Barolo, with more apparent minerality. Quite silky in texture thanks to firm but well-integrated acidity. Most impressive today on the back end, which is long and scented, with a delicate but very persistent flavor of almost candied small red fruits.”
International Wine Cellar, 92 points

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Barolo Romirasco 2005

From the stunning, wide slopes of the Romirasco vineyard, whose vines average 50-55 years old, the main variety planted is the Lampia clone on Rupestris du Lot rootstock. The wine is left to macerate on the skins for at least 15 days, after which it is left to rest in stainless-steel tanks for 3-5 months. Thereafter, it is transferred to large Slavonian-oak barrels where it will rest for 28-30 months.

“The 2005 Barolo Romirasco is a regal, aristocratic wine that embodies everything a great Barolo should be. The wine reveals awesome density and richness in layers of deeply spiced, mentholated dark fruit, flowers and minerals that continue to emerge from the glass in a never-ending display of sheer elegance and class. This is one of the few truly complete, multi-dimensional wines of the vintage. Today the wine comes across as exceedingly young, and some bottle age is essential in order to enjoy the wine at its very finest. This is a gem from Aldo Conterno. Based on the well-deserved success of the 2004 the estate has decided to bottle a small amount of the Romirasco in each vintage, something Barolo lovers should be thrilled about.”
The Wine Advocate, 94 points

“Blackberry and blueberry aromas, with light vanilla and floral character, lead to a full-bodied palate, with very sweet fruit and chewy tannins. Turns to a real mouthful. A beautiful single-vineyard wine.”
The Wine Spectator, 94 points

“ Good deep, dark red. Spicy aromas of black fruits, fresh herbs, licorice and minerals. Large-scaled, broad and rich, with superb depth of flavor and sweetness leavened by terrific energy. Impressively concentrated wine with atypical density and primary fruit character for the year. Finishes powerful and gripping but perfumed, with tongue-saturating tannins and terrific lift. The other 2005 Barolos were bottled in the summer of 2008 but this got an extra three months in used 25- to-70-hectoliter barrels. There will also be a small quantity of 2005 Gran Bussia but that wine will not be released for at least two more years.”
International Wine Cellar, 94 points

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Barolo Granbussia 2001

This benchmark bottling combines the absolute best of the best and only in exceptional vintages from Conterno’s three Bussia vineyards. Subject to change according to the vintage, the percentages are generally 70% Romirasco, 15% Cicala, and 15% Colonnello. Both Lampia and Michet Nebbiolo clones are used. The wine is left to macerate on the skins for at least 15 days, after which it is left to rest in stainless-steel tanks for 3-5 months. Thereafter, it is transferred to large Slavonian-oak barrels where it will rest for 36 months, after which it stays another 6 years in the cellar before being sold. The world awaits the release of the 2004 Granbussia, from a truly monumental vintage.

“Good full medium red. Very ripe aromas of strawberry, licorice, minerals and truffle, with balsamic and dried floral nuances. Fat, sweet, rich and deep; at once succulent and seamless, with a wonderfully layered texture and great early appeal. Very full without coming across as weighty. The slow-building finish features substantial sweet tannins. “Shows the magic side of 2001,” Franco offers. “It can keep for a long time but it’s great right now.” By the way, 2001 was the seventh consecutive vintage in which this wine was bottled, but there will be no ‘02, ‘03 or ‘04.”
International Wine Cellar, 95 points

“The 2001 Barolo Riserva Granbussia is wonderfully harmonious in its sweet, open aromatics and perfumed, ripe red fruit. Medium in body, this delicate Granbussia is surprisingly open at this stage. It is impossible to resist now…This is a remarkably fresh and vibrant Granbussia that should develop beautifully over the following years and decades.”
The Wine Advocate, 94 points

“Displays wonderful aromas of strawberry and Indian spices, with a hint of flowers. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins, a beautiful texture and excellent balance. Drinking really well now. One of the most balanced Granbussias yet.”
The Wine Spectator, 92 points

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